1972 Peugeot PX-10

I have dreamed about owning a PX-10 since I was a teenager, but it was simply beyond my financial reach. Unlike my other “grail” vehicle (a 50’s era Jaguar XK-150), I finally managed to acquire a PX-10 frame, fork, headset, bottom bracket, and crankset. One always takes a chance and rolls the dice on eBay because you don’t have the opportunity to see the bike firsthand and you just have to take the seller’s word about condition.

When I saw this PX-10 on eBay, I got excited: it was in my price range and no one was bidding on it. What was I missing? In the final minutes of the auction, I took the plunge and bid successfully. I counted the days, and hours, and minutes until it arrived on my doorstep … only to discover upon unpacking that the Simplex drops had been drewed! Damn it all! Why, why, why do people make irreversible alterations to bicycles. It’s especially egregious with a frame as storied as a PX-10.

Once I got over my initial disappointment though, I began to see that I could give myself permission to combine the best of vintage frame pieces with a little more contemporary componentry. With the rear derailleur hanger grinded off the drops, I had to revise my thinking – which, until this point, had been to locate and install a high-end Simplex derailleur that was period correct. With that option off the table, I decided to go with an eclectic blending of vintage elements with (somewhat) modern Shimano 600/Dura-Ace rear derailleur, 105 brakes, a 7-speed hub, and a red Flite saddle.

The tires are Maxxis Fuse, which I really like riding on. (My last set was ridden for 5,200 miles before I ever got a single flat!) The Weinmann rims are 700’s, and relatively light; in fact, the bike weighs in just a touch over 17 pounds. Not too shabby for a steel lugged bike that’s nearly four decades old!

And did I mention that this thing is FAST? I don’t have a good cluster installed for climbing, but out on the flat country highways that parallel the Missouri River this bike can really fly. It’s geared pretty high and I have yet to come close to maxing out at top end. This has become my second-favorite rider, only outpaced in my current stable by my Freschi Supreme Super Cromo.


9 thoughts on “1972 Peugeot PX-10

  1. Robert says:

    Nice bike, glad you were able to put it right again and not give in to the mods. As much as I like fixies sometimes they cause little problems down the road! I too have a bike like yours, I mdae it a fixie, and then put it all back to stock. It works better as a 10 speed for me. Thanks for posting.

    • Kenneth, unfortunately that’s a bit of an open-ended question, so let’s clarify: first off, is your bike a PX-10 or one of the other similarly styled Peugeot models? For instance, unless one is familiar with the models, one might easily mistake the UO-8 and the PX-10 – and the tubing material and diameter are different, and thus so is the seat pin diameter. The year also makes a difference, so for example Sheldon lists the seat pin size for 1973 as 26.4; for 1976 as 26.6; and for 1984 as 26.2. You might also check here: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-352534.html for an answer – that fellow was trying to start a seat post database and looking for contributions. However, the easiest thing to do would be to stop by your local bike shop and have them measure it with a seat post sizing rod, like this: http://sheldonbrown.com/images/seatpost-sizer.jpg
      Presuming the previous owner hasn’t squeezed the top tube closed on a too-small seat pin, they’ll be able to size it dead accurately. Hope this helps.

  2. Kenneth says:

    Thanks! I’ll take it in to the shop and see what they say. Mine looks just like yours, chromed stays, same stickers, plain lugs. I guess it’s hard to tell exactly what year and model it is. I haven’t seen many photos online with the plain lugs. My seatpost is always slipping, it finally occurred to me it may be too small. It definately doesn’t take a 26.4 or larger, which leaves me wondering what model it really is. Thanks.

    • Kenneth, a few clues. Look to see if you have the rectangular black “Inoxydable” sticker on the tubing. In addition to a rectangular (with radius corners) Reynolds 531 decal on the tubing, you should also have triangular (with radius corners) Reynolds 531 decals on both forks. Your rear stays and fork should have chromed “socks” also.

  3. Derek says:

    My aunt just gave me the same bike. I would love to put on the same seat, tires and handlebar wrap that you did. What size Maxxis Fuse tires are they? The old tires on the bike are Michelin 27 x 1 1/4. Looks great. Can’t wait to do the same. Thanks!

    • The good news: I can tell you precisely what size tires I had on that bike – 700c x 23. The bad news: you’ll need a different set of 700c wheels because you’ve got 27″ wheels. You may also need a different set of brake calipers as well, because the change in wheel size may mean that your current set may not (probably won’t) have long enough reach. If those Michelins are in decent condition, they are pretty good tires quite honestly.
      OK, so let’s discuss the pros and cons. Pro – If you stay with 27″, you won’t need new wheels (presuming your current wheels are true and in good repair.) Con – You will have limited options on new tires. Pro – The Panaracer Pasela comes in a period-correct tan wall in 27 x 1 1/4, and is frequently run on sale for around $20 per tire. Con – The older 27″ wheels are often made of steel, are heavy, and don’t stop well (especially when wet). Pro – 700c wheels are much lighter and there are lots and lots of tire options. Con – They’ll need long reach brake calipers that are “nutted.” (Otherwise you’ll have to drill out hardened steel.)

      • derek says:

        Thanks for your help. I ordered the Panaracer tires for the old school effect. Maybe I’ll just jazz it up with a red brooks saddle and red handlebars. Ride on!

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